The Imperial Family's Dress

[Prisma]

Bunshun report about Masako's yellow dress for the engagement press conference.

Two dresses were delivered to the Owada residence in January 1993. Masako (29), her mother Yumiko (54) and younger sister Reiko (26 and recently returned from Hanoi, Vietnam) gathered in the living room with designer Akemi Tsunoda (62) and staff. Both silk dresses were made in a hurry and had the same design but in different colors: pale pink and lemon yellow.

Masako didn't mind either color. She tried on the pink first and everyone approved. After Masako changed into the yellow, Yumiko commented "Yellow is also good. It feels like spring and is the color of hope."

Hisashi Owada (60) returned home and Reiko asked his opinion. He smiled and tried to bypass but Reiko asked again which dress he thought was better. He eventually said "I think the yellow you're wearing now is fine" and Masako said "Let’s make it yellow!" with a bright smile.

There was no deep meaning in the dress selection.

Some were disappointed at Masako's appearance at her official debut to the public. As a Harvard graduate and a talented career woman from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the yellow dress and matching hat felt the "power of the Imperial family" and seemed to block off the individuality of Masako, who walks forward in trench coat and large bag.

However, according to Masako's friend, the nuances are different. "Masako is very good at adapting to circumstances around her. Judging from the interview, Masako decided to abandon her career and work hard in the Imperial family from the beginning."

 

[victoriaalix]

Yes Ortiz, I've noticed how tastefully and cute Aiko is dressed. Which is a relief after the jeans and sloppy sweat shirts worn by many "tweens" in the USA. That is the way private school and even public school children dressed in America years ago, much of the time.

I surely agree that Masako needs a style overhaul, but please do not have her skirts above her knees like some of the younger European and UK princesses, which would surely be considered undignified in a traditional culture like Japan. But get rid of shoulder pads and bulky jackets. And the pillbox hat Masako wore to the WA wedding was weird, made her look like a soldier at a sentinel box in a group of toy soldiers. Only her beautiful smile saved it. She could look so great with some better designs. I notice some people don't like Letizia's style but I think it would look good on Masako, and some of Mary or Mathilde's outfits would too. but not skirts above the knees.

Aiko's fashion sense seems to be what is usually popular for children of her age in Japan. Note that Japan's fashion sense is generally more conservative than those of the West. Of course, the fashions you see at Akihabara are an exception because those are considered to be fringe fashion within Japan (and even for Western nations).

 

[Tatiana Maria]

Bunshun report about Masako's yellow dress for the engagement press conference.

[...]

Some were disappointed at Masako's appearance at her official debut to the public. As a Harvard graduate and a talented career woman from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the yellow dress and matching hat felt the "power of the Imperial family" and seemed to block off the individuality of Masako, who walks forward in trench coat and large bag.

It is difficult for me to imagine such comments being aired today, judging members of the imperial family for not displaying enough individuality. On the contrary, it seems that the critics of imperial family members mainly admonish them for breaching guidelines, not being as dutiful or hardworking as they should, etc. However, as I only read what is reported outside of Japan, I may be entirely off the mark.

However, according to Masako's friend, the nuances are different. "Masako is very good at adapting to circumstances around her. Judging from the interview, Masako decided to abandon her career and work hard in the Imperial family from the beginning."

I agree with Masako and her friend; there is nothing wrong with a change of uniform to embody the change of career.

Articles like this about events from decades before are very interesting; thank you for the translation!

 

[LauraS3514]

It is difficult for me to imagine such comments being aired today, judging members of the imperial family for not displaying enough individuality. On the contrary, it seems that the critics of imperial family members mainly admonish them for breaching guidelines, not being as dutiful or hardworking as they should, etc. However, as I only read what is reported outside of Japan, I may be entirely off the mark.

I agree with Masako and her friend; there is nothing wrong with a change of uniform to embody the change of career.

Articles like this about events from decades before are very interesting; thank you for the translation!

One thing I remember from that time is that Masako was criticized for two things about the engagement interview: for speaking more words than her fiance (it was something like nine words or thereabouts), and for being taller than Naruhito. I kid you not!

 

[Prisma]

Various articles about the restoration of one of Empress Shoken's Western style court dresses

- This court dress is one of 3 formal court dresses and restoration began in 2018.
- The dress was originally thought to be made in Germany as there is record of a long court dress order to Berlin, Germany in 1886. However, it could be made in Japan.
- When the lining of the dress train was removed for restoration, the team found Japanese paper written with Chinese characters was used as reinforcement material.
- The floral embroidery was also done in Japan.
- The dress fabric is a mystery. Since Empress Shoken encouraged domestic silk, it was believed to be Japanese. However, experts suggest the complex fabric used a jacquard loom which was difficult to weave in Japan at the time.
- Monica Bethe is director of the restoration project and Empress Emerita Michiko is interested as well. Bethe reported the technique of using Japanese paper as reinforcing material is an embroidery method that has been used since the 16th century in Japan. Different from European methods of reinforcement.
- Empress Shoken donated the dress to Daisho-ji temple in Kyoto in 1911.
- The partially restored train will be exhibited at Meiji Jingu Museum in Shibuya, Tokyo from October 17. Full restoration is scheduled to be completed in 2022.
- Empress Shoken wore a long, formal court dress for the first time during New Year's celebration in 1887.

Photos: Asahi, tokyo-np.co.jp, tokyo-np.co.jp2

 

[Prisma]

Asahi translated their article. Yay!

Secrets unravel during repairs to Meiji Era gown worn by empress: The Asahi Shimbun

A formal court gown with a long trail thought to have been tailored overseas for Empress Shoken (1850-1914) is unraveling all sorts of secrets as it undergoes repairs.

[...]

The flowing dress was preserved at Daishoji, an imperial convent in Kyoto, where female members of the imperial clan, court nobility and others lived as Buddhist nuns after they retired.

A note in Indian ink found on the lining of the dress says the garment was donated by Empress Shoken to the nunnery in 1911.

Ryobun Inui, a nun at Daishoji, said its abbess at the time had interactions with Empress Shoken.

[...]

Monica Bethe, head of the executive committee of the scientific repair and restoration project, said the style of the sleeves and other features indicate the garment was tailored around 1888-1890.

While records suggest the gown was tailored in Germany, Bethe said it was found during repairs that embroidery was made in Japan.

When the lining of the dress was removed, a piece of traditional Japanese “washi” paper, with kanji written on it, emerged on the other side of embroidery on the dress’s train that served as a stiffener.

“Repairs of the dress help us understand the historical background of the time the dress was being made,” said Bethe, director of the Kyoto-based Medieval Japanese Studies Institute. “The work involves unraveling one mystery after another.”

She referred to a “mystery” surrounding the fabric of the dress.

The fabric was assumed to be a product of Japan, partly because Empress Shoken was a keen promoter of the nation’s silk industry.

Given its complexity, the dress’s fabric was likely woven using a Jacquard machine. However, experts concluded that it would have been difficult to weave it with the less sophisticated Jacquard machines then in use in Japan.

[...]

The bodice and partially restored train on display at Meiji Jingu Museum

 

[Prisma]

FNN interviewed hat designer Ohko Hirata about Princess Aiko’s hat worn for greeting her grandparents on New Year 2022. Hirata suggested adding Aiko’s personal emblem Goyo azalea as decoration. She also designed the yellow hat Empress Masako wore at the general public greetings for Emperor Naruhito’s accession May 4, 2019.

Although Hirata did not design the hat Empress Masako wore on November 13 (Sea enrichment festival), she said her company has made many changes to it, such as reworking and replacing the hat band with the blue, curvy ribbon to mimic Masako's suit edges. Asked about Masako's tendency to wear hats low over her eyes, Hirata says "[it's] a very mature way of wearing it" with the hat shape clearly visible whereas "wearing a hat shallow (higher) gives a younger impression."

Photos: FNN

Ohko Hirata is the daughter of late hat designer Akio Hirata, who created many hats for Empress Emerita Michiko.