Moroccan dresses and their influence in the fashion!

[susan alicia]

Hi susan,

Thanks for comments, that's interesting if you already know about it. Please if you can post links/articles which say more about byzantine influences ... Me, I found a website which says the Ottoman women wore belts made/set with jewels .... (of course byzantine did exist before Ottoman and mostly in the same region)

Belts and sashes (uçkur)
...

• Sashes were made of a folded and seamed length of linen, measuring approximately 2m long by 15 cm wide. They featured elaborate gold-embroidered end panels, around 12-15 cm long.
• Several 16th belts in the Topkapi Saray Museum are presumed to be women’s. They are of ivory, silver or mother of pearl plaques, joined by links or mounted on leather. The are elaborately decorated with gold or silver scrollwork, and set with jewels. Their length would indicate they were worn around the waist, not the hips.

From http://www.redkaganate.org/clothing/ottocloth.shtml


About jackey belt, in JFK library - treasures exhibit, it said it's a gift from Moroccan king Hassan II. To me the belt she wore in the picture is similar to the one in the exhibit. I posted more detail of Hassan II gifts to JK in post #47 http://www.theroyalforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=177599&mode=linear#post177599

abir

it very well might be a maroccan belt, I just assumed the possibility of it being a present from ari when I saw the year in which she wore it.

I can look it up, which empire excisted before the other but confess to being a total lazybones and less of a perfectionist than you (and I will not )

susan

 

[abir]

we have this exhibition at the moment in amsterdam and it is very beautiful and impressive:

Art Treasures from Moroccan Museums.
Nieuwe Kerk, Amsterdam
December 17, 2004 – April 17, 2005

Thanks susan for the post; it's interesting

 

[abir]

abir

it very well might be a maroccan belt, I just assumed the possibility of it being a present from ari when I saw the year in which she wore it.
susan

Reading your post and knowing the date of the picture (1967) I thought also if it could be ari gift ...
Close pictures of the original belt (first one) and what Jackey wore ... and to me it seems they have some similarities.

 

[Monalisa]

good remark abir for the silver belt worne by Jacky kennedy,i like this touch on a simple dress,which makes it very special and stylish!

You are true monamona,those belts exist before 67,it's a part of the traditionnal style of morocco,we can find them even in the far mountains of atlas where berber people use more silver jewels!

 

[Monalisa]

I like the fact that this thread is getting interest of posters from different cultures and with different views,which makes talking about fashion other way than always royal women wearing stylish clothes from the runaway designers!

 

[Athena]

You are wrong,actually it was not Alexander Mcqueen , john galliano doesn't worked for YSL,the dress is from 97 collection so before 1998 when yves saint-laurent left the design and retired,and galliano is still working for Dior.

Anyway,it isn't so important,who's de designer for which house,since the features of design of the house of YSL are preserved with or without yves saint-laurent whatever the designer who's working for the collection,so for example you can see the difference between the collection of Karl lagerfied working under CHANEL ,and his collection working under hiw name,the spirit of CHANEL is preserved as it was under Gabrielle Coco chanel!


As for the inspiration of that green dress worne by Nicole Kidman,you see that by eyes that you want,for me it's oriental with moroccan touch from caftans,as i know,chinese dresses don't have the opened edges till the kne as it's for moroccan caftans ,anyway,moroccan caftans are themself influenced by many other styles,but the features stay oriental!

Isn't that what I said in the first place that it was John Galliano who designed the dress??

 

[Amira]

more pics

 

[Monalisa]

Isn't that what I said in the first place that it was John Galliano who designed the dress??

Thought you said that it was for Yves saint-laurent by John galliano or Alexander Mcqueen,i my self was wrong,it's so YSL's style,but it's for Christian Dior by john galliano!

 

[Monalisa]

more pics

thanks amira for posting those pictures, i like the black&white one,the design is a bit special

 

[abir]

I come across a website which has great work of Moroccan high-couture designers. It's http://www.caftan-biladi.com/index.htm

The costumes are beautiful and I like the large belts. I post down some outfits which I like most as well antique Moroccan Wedding Sash - Sashes from http://www.artisanaworks.com/ethnic4.htm
The last picture is of a Turkish Ottoman silk sash belt of the 18th century.

Hope you will like them

 

[abir]

I believe there are dozens of sashs around the world similar to antique Moroccan wedding belt. I post down something similar: the Obi Sash Belts for Kimono, from http://www.japanesekimono.com/obi_belts.htm
The last picture of Obi Jacquard Silk, Japan 1920's, from http://www.allfiberarts.com/library/cmot/blobi.htm

 

[Monalisa]

I come across a website which has great work of Moroccan high-couture designers. It's http://www.caftan-biladi.com/index.htm



Hope you will like them

thanks abir for posting the link,the caftan festival of 2004 was so "haute couture"!

 

[abir]

You are welcome Monalisa

 

[abir]

Rachida ALAOUI
COSTUMES ET PARURES DU MAROC

The burnous, the caftan, the jellaba, the haïk and other garments are signs of how Moroccan urban clothes have spread throughout time. The blooming of dress traditions from their Andalusian heritage and the Moorish and Spanish fashions long interested the western travelers and ambassadors from the 16th to 18th centuries, and "oriental" fashions conquered the 19th century Romantics, as well as Matisse in the 20th century. By the richness and diversity of the ornamentation specific to each region, by the brilliance of the colors and the luxury of the fabrics used, clothes for both men and women excelled in their refinement and elegance. The workshops of Fez, Tetouan, Meknès, and Rabat produced the finest caftans and the most sumptuous woven fabrics, especially those used for wedding garments for Muslims and Jews alike. But grandiose clothes are not complete unless they are accompanied by golden jewelry, in many forms: tiaras, earrings, jewels worn on the temples, buckles, rings, broaches, necklaces, bracelets, and ankle bracelets. These luxury crafts are still alive today, through a revival of jewelry and fabrics, driven by the growth in Moroccan haute couture, which was born about twenty years ago in an attempt to preserve and revitalize this precious heritage. Of immutable form, traditional garments have constantly evolved, with new fabrics, colors and patterns, integrating foreign influences - oriental, Andalusian, Ottoman, and finally European - but have always maintained their predominant position and social meaning, in spite of modernity and the appearance of western clothes. This special vitality has been noticed by French fashion designers, such as Mariano Fortuny, Paul Poiret and Yves Saint Laurent, who, with bright and original designs, have used Moroccan patterns, styles and ornaments in their creations, and have been irresistibly influenced by the enchanting splendor of Moroccan garments.

From http://www.acr-edition.com/ASP/Coll_Detail.asp?offset=10&ISBN=2-86770-161-9

 

[Monalisa]

my favourite young moroccan designers,Albert Waknine,very contemporary styling ,but preserving the features and the spirit of the moroccan cafatn:

 

[Monalisa]

the touch of Albert Waknine,"the embroided corsaire addition ",very interesting!

 

[Monalisa]

more from Albert Waknine!

 

[Monalisa]

more ,a research in styling and materials used:

 

[Monalisa]

A white caftan/takchita as a bridial dress from the young moroccan designer Albert Waknine:

 

[saloua]

the queen in moroccan clothes

 

[Monalisa]

The rebel of the moroccan fashion design Zhor Rayes,intitled her 2004caftan's collection under"End of harem's time",the usual long caftan became a mini-dress with the same features of the traditional moroccan caftan:

 

[abir]

Do you have any idea where Moroccan designers made their studies?
Was it in Morocco or abroad, and their first work was in Morocco or with international fashion designers like many starters do.


http://www.ifa.de/galerien/modewelten/elakhdar.htm

 

[Monalisa]

Do you have any idea where Moroccan designers made their studies?
Was it in Morocco or abroad, and their first work was in Morocco or with international fashion designers like many starters do.

Most of moroccan designers if not all of them,made their studies in morocco,and performed their knowledge in morocco with famous designers who work in morocco like yves saint-laurent and others,but some of them performed in France especially,i have an article about that with the moroccan designer Tami Tazi,but i have to translate it from french to english ,and will post it!


Some of the moroccan designers didn't do classical studies for "design" in a design school,but learned from the traditional designers "maallam",but the difference is the researsh done by them in morocco and around the world!

Actually,all of moroccan designers have a moroccan background,which helps to work the traditional caftan and to do from it a "haute couture" caftan!

 

[abir]

Thanks for answer Monalisa. I thought it's interesting to know how Moroccan designers succeed in mixing wonderful styles/colors/fabrics to come with fashion dresses ... For sure that's need moroccan background and maybe some international studies/research/experience/influence ...

 

[Monalisa]

The moroccan designer Tami Tazi said:


"I've made the "beldi" for years,the tradition holds me with heart,that's requires in the same time creativity and a preserving direction!"


Living in France,she continues to draw its inspiration in the pure morocan traditions,and makes work all its models by moroccan craftsmen.


Creations of Tami Tazi ravel in the whole world from Istinbul to Newyork and passing by Paris.


She represented during many years the house of "Yves saint- laurent"!

 

[Josefine]

are there any designers like armani prada and others that use Moroco as insperation?

 

[abir]

are there any designers like armani prada and others that use Moroco as insperation?

I think if the designer him/herself doesn't say clearly that his/her work/collection have Moroccan inspiration, it will be difficult to know. For instance an indian designer Ranna Gill said she uses moroccan styles in her 2004 collection http://rannagill.com/html/morocco.htm



Designer Ranna Gill promises a pretty line with a heavy Moroccan influence. "The styles and colours will all remind you of Morocco. There are kaftan tops and kurtas in colours ranging from chocolate to turquoise, blue and gold," she said.

From http://in.rediff.com/news/2004/apr/27lifw.htm

 

[abir]

Fashion Trends 2005 - Spring 2005 & Summer 2005

From http://www.fashion-era.com/Trends_2005/fashion_trends_2005_5_designers_spring_summer.htm

Betty Jackson

Betty Jackson never fails to make an impression producing wearable clothes that her clients love. there were Bohemian touches throughout her show. Her Knitwear featured a hint of Navajo amid feathered trimmings. Her evening wear focused on dresses which glowed with Moroccan silver embroidery and beading. Soft flesh coloured kaftans were delicate and easy. An unusual combination was the pairing of striped sweaters with full skirts of taffeta, wrapped with sashes and bowed at the waistline. ​

She was also inspired by both the 70s and 30s and Jackson's floral frilled chiffon, high waisted dresses took us to a world of voluptuous cleavage and lazy dreamy afternoons. Jackson showed leaf printed coats a line also followed by Proenza Schouler in New York. One feature likely to be a big hit were her studded belts.


Pictures from gettyimages and vogue.co.uk; the first one is of the designer Betty Jackson.

 

[rosa]

in the majority of the models I don't recognize the caftan as I appreciate it,
to modernize it is a good thing but there I find that the costume is denatured
one of the only models that pleased me

 

[abir]

Hi rosa, I agree with you and I see what you mean.
I notice as well that the princesses' dresses look different from what some designers offer ... So I guess some Moroccan fashion outfits can't be worn ...