Imperial Family of Japan Jewellery 1: Ending 2023


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There should be a State Visit from US to Japan in May, so we'll see soon if any new tiaras are worn.
 
The Meiji Scroll Tiara is definitely an eye catcher. I can only imagine how it glitters IRL. It also has very beautiful style that never ages.
 
This tweeter got fabulous photos of Mikasa and Takamado princesses at the general public greeting on May 4

Princess Hisako: beautiful brooch
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D5suV4IUYAMex8t.jpg

Princess Akiko: diamond brooch with small aquamarine pendant?
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D5suV4KUYAA8ZI4.jpg

Princess Tsuguko's brooch with big blue gem
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D5suV4IUwAAzuB9.jpg

Princess Nobuko:
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D5suV4MVUAAVjZn.jpg
 
The Empress appears to be wearing a necklace set in gold which seems unusual. I can't recall seeing any of the ladies in the Japanese Royal Family wearing jewels set in anything other than platinum. This one looks like a beauty.
 
This necklace looks to me as though it might be convertible to a tiara, so I wonder if it is an older tiara/necklace that has been brought out of the vaults?
 
This necklace looks to me as though it might be convertible to a tiara, so I wonder if it is an older tiara/necklace that has been brought out of the vaults?

It will be interesting to see what jewels the Empress chooses to bring out over the next few years.
 
It is slightly off topic but does anybody else have the same impression that the new imperial couple is always smiling (like being extra radiant) and seem to be in great spirits whereas the new crown princely couple seem to be more earnest and subdued? Maybe it is just the pictures but....
 
It is slightly off topic but does anybody else have the same impression that the new imperial couple is always smiling (like being extra radiant) and seem to be in great spirits whereas the new crown princely couple seem to be more earnest and subdued? Maybe it is just the pictures but....

We saw the same with WA & Máxima, with Philippe and Mathilde, with Felipe and Letizia. A fresh new royal couple is met with enthusiasm and cheer. And the royals respond on that. The result: mediagenic pictures.
 
Sankei has a report on tiaras:

Meiji tiara is about 130 years old. It's the first and oldest tiara for the Imperial family.

The "Tokyo Nichi Nichi Shimbun" newspaper, dated February 11, 1887 (Meiji 20), reported a tiara was made by Leonhard & Figel of Berlin, Germany and describes the diamonds on top of the tiara could be removed. (NOTE: Leonhard & Figel could be Reinhard & Figel. Google translate had trouble.)

In the past, coming-of-age parures were commissioned to a jeweler. However, a bidding process was introduced in 2003 with Princess Yoko of Mikasa's parure.

Wako won the bid for Princess Mako's tiara. The design was based on the manufacturer’s proposal with input from the princess. Mikimoto won the bid for Princess Kako’s tiara.

Tiaras are not private property, they are state-owned.


This Japanese site has other details.

Meiji tiara: made in 1885 (Meiji 18)

Chrysanthemum tiara: made in 1917 (Taisho 6)

Crown Princess Scroll tiara: allegedly an early tiara of Empress Nagako (made by Mikimoto) was remodeled to create the Crown Princess Scroll tiara
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D650Q7WUIAEpcv_.png

Princess Takamatsu (Kikuko): it seems she wished then-Crown Princess Masako and Princess Kiko to inherit / use her 2 tiaras (but that apparently never happened???). Princess Takamatsu's jewelry included a tiara given by Empress Teimei and was returned/donated to the IHA.

Princess Kiko's tiara: made by a subsidiary of Mikimoto

Princess Akiko's tiara: Mikimoto

Princess Yoko's tiara: Wako

Princess Tsuguko's tiara: Wako

Princess Noriko's tiara: Mikimoto at 15,225,000 yen

Princess Ayako's tiara: Mikimoto at 14,857,500 yen

Princess Mako's tiara: Wako at 28,560,000 yen

Princess Kako's tiara: Mikimoto at 28,920,000 yen
 
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Sankei translated their tiara article. What we call the Meiji tiara, Sankei calls it the "Empress’s First Tiara"

Imperial Trivia: The Empress's Tiara | JAPAN Forward
A Tiara with a 130-Year History

[...]

Empress Masako wore the impressive “Empress’s First Tiara” in the enthronement ceremonies held at the Imperial Palace on May 1. The radiant ornament is the most distinguished among all the tiaras inherited by past empresses.

The history of the tiara can be traced back 130 years, according to Junko Aoki, an expert on the history and fashion of the imperial family and research associate professor at Daito Bunka University.

[...]

The Tokyo newspaper Nichi Nichi Shimbun published an article on February 2, 1887, reported that the bespoke tiara for Empress Shōken was created by “goldsmiths Leonhard and Feegel from Berlin, Germany” and was adorned with “60 brilliant-cut diamonds.” It also noted that the diamond at the top of the tiara could be removed.

[...]

Competing for Modern-Day Imperial Orders

Tiaras inherited by the empresses are part of a group of heirlooms that are recognized by the Imperial Household Agency as “historical articles to be inherited with the throne.” Meanwhile, tiaras worn by other women in the imperial family for events such as their coming-of-age ceremony are often custom-ordered by the Imperial Household Agency, along with other jewelry.

In the past, orders were made to specific contractors based on no-bid contracts. However, when imperial cousin Princess Yōko of Mikasa became of age in 2003, a bid system with handpicked participants was introduced.

A similar process was followed for the 2011 coming-of-age ceremony of Princess Mako [...] when retailer Wako and jeweler Mikimoto bid their services for the new tiara. The design was finalized based on Wako’s proposals and Princess Mako’s preferences.

For her sister Princess Kako’s coming of age ceremony a few years later, a wide range of companies were solicited. Their designs were judged by a panel of academics, who chose Mikimoto. [...]

These tiaras are not private property. They are considered state-owned, and may be used by the women until they leave the imperial family by marriage.
 
Thank you for posting that, it was a very interesting read. If anything is ever posted in a similar publication about the chrysanthemum tiara, I would love to read that, too!
 
The editorial department of Bunshun requested a list of "items inherited from Emperor to Emperor" from the Imperial Household Agency. Curiously, the IHA released a 23-page document listing about 580 items without sanitization (I guess without redactions?).

Besides the Three Sacred Treasures and other national / cultural properties, the list revealed 20 items Empress Masako inherited from Empress Michiko.

1. crown (diamond) —> A type
2. crown (chrysanthemum) —> B type
3. necklace (diamond 3 [strands]) —> A type
4. necklace (pearl 4 [strands]) —> B type
5. chest ornament (diamond) —> A type
6. necklace [choker?] (pearl, diamond, circular) —> A type
7. necklace [choker?] (emerald, large, medium sized) —> A type
8. necklace [choker?] (chrysanthemum, 1 large, 2 small) —> B type
9. necklace [choker?] (black pearl, diamond, chrysanthemum) —> B type
10. bracelet (yellow diamond) —> A type
11. bracelet (diamond) —> A type
12. bracelet (emerald, diamond, chrysanthemum) —> B type
13. earrings (diamond) —> A type
14. earrings (chrysanthemum) —> B type
15. bracelet (sapphire diamond enclosure) —> A type
16. bracelet (emerald diamond enclosure) —> A type
17. ring (2 diamonds, S-shaped) —> B type
18. ring (sapphire, diamond) —> B type
19. folding fan (lace lined, diamond, white beak bone) —> A type
20. handbag (wire mesh) —> B type

#3-4 use 御頚飾 "necklace" according to Google translate but #6-9 use 御襟止 which I've seen translated as "collar" or "necklace" so I'm thinking it might be a choker?

The magazine showed the list to Toshiyuki Okuma, a researcher at the Museum of the Imperial Collections Sannomaru-Shōzōkan for 12 years, and historian Michifumi Isoda.

Okuma mentions there’s an anecdote that Emperor Meiji liked diamonds, specifically the feeling of diamond as an ore, not as a luxury item.

Isoda observed there's no Japanese clothing in the 23-page document.

Okuma believes attire is considered "Oku" and is managed by "Oku Goten" (Inner Palace?) and women officers rather than "Omote Goten" (Outer Palace?). He concludes "the list must be limited to historical items that are handed down for ceremonies."

Isoda didn't understand the A and B types in the remarks but guesses from photos that the design can be changed by exchanging the types. Empress Masako wore a 2-strand diamond necklace for the May 1st ceremony rather than the 3-strand version which is classified as A type.

Screenshot of the jewelry/accessories list. The asterisk at the bottom notes "Depending on type of event, location, time, etc., replace with A or B type accessories."
https://bunshun.ismcdn.jp/mwimgs/f/9/1500wm/img_f9f5be01709febc4e72d5cf5770bc006302867.jpg

Comparison of Empress Masako and Empress Shōken in Meiji tiara (also A type) and 2 vs. 3 strand diamond necklace
https://bunshun.jp/mwimgs/6/8/1500wm/img_689111b4fa87390e1d3ca5c16c2f6449484555.jpg
 
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I am most intrigued by:

7. necklace [choker?] (emerald, large, medium sized) —> A type
9. necklace [choker?] (black pearl, diamond, chrysanthemum) —> B type
12. bracelet (emerald, diamond, chrysanthemum) —> B type
15. bracelet (sapphire diamond enclosure) —> A type
16. bracelet (emerald diamond enclosure) —> A type
 
Thank you for the list, Prisma! So if I'm understanding this correctly, they are kind of like the 'Joyas de Pasar' in Spain. It's not all of the jewels just the ones that by tradition pass from emperor to emperor?
 
Thank you. How sure was Isoda that A type and B type signified that an item was configurable? My first thought was that the type indicates who the original owner was, like A type means it first belonged to Empress Shoken and B type means it first belonged to Empress Teimei. Of course, I don't have all of the information he had and that would also mean the none of the jewels that pass from empress to empress originated with Empress Kojun since there are only two types.
 
Isoda wasn't sure about the A, B types. He guess based on photos.

Shibusawa Shashi Database has a timeline of "100 years of Mikimoto Pearls" (July 1994)

Here are Imperial family related info:

1898 - Offered half-circle of pearls to Emperor Meiji
1900 - Prince Komatsu Akihito visited pearl farm
1915 - Received order and prepared first official "chest ornament" for Empress Teimei in April
1917 - Received order and prepared second official tiara for Empress Teimei in June
1923 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Crown Prince's bride (Princess Nagako of Kuni, later Empress Kojun) in December
1928 - Prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Chichibu's bride (Setsuko Matsudaira) in September
1930 - Prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Takamatsu's bride (Lady Kikuko Tokugawa) in February
1936 - Received order and prepared second tiara, pendant, brooch, etc. for Princess Chichibu to wear at coronation of King George VI in 1937
1941 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Mikasa's bride (Yuriko Takagi)in October
1950 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Princess Taka (Mrs. Kazuko Takatsukasa)
1951 - Emperor Showa (Hirohito) visited a pearl farm in November
1952 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Princess Yori (Mrs. Atsuko Ikeda)
1954 - Empress Kojun (Nagako) visited a pearl farm
1959 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Crown Prince's bride (Michiko Shoda)
1960 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Princess Suga’s wedding (Mrs. Takako Shimazu)
1960 - Received order and prepared second official tiara and jewelry for Crown Princess Michiko for the US visit
1964 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Hitachi's bride (Hanako Tsugaru)
1971 - Received order and prepared jewelry for Empress Kojun's visit to Europe
1980 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for bride of Prince Tomohito of Mikasa (Nobuko Asō)
1983 - Prince and Princess Mikasa attended Mikimoto's 90th anniversary event
1984 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Takamado's bride (Hisako Tottori)
1990 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Akishino's bride (Kiko Kawashima)
1993 - Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko attend a Mikimoto charity concert
1993 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Crown Prince's bride (Masako Owada)
 
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Mikimoto pearls are extraordinarily beautiful, with an incredible lustre, so their long history with the imperial family is well-deserved. I am assuming that the beautiful pearl ring that Empress Maskao habitually wears on her right hand may be part of the "wedding goods" order from 1993, do we know its provenance?
 
Thank you, I feel like I keep saying this but I'm really enjoying all of the content because usually it's so hard to find stuff about the JIF.

1917 - Received order and prepared second official tiara for Empress Teimei in June

Do you think this means that they only made the second tiara or that this is the second tiara they made for Empress Teimei?

1941 - Received order and prepared tiara and jewelry for Prince Mikasa's bride (Yuriko Takagi) in October

Is it known which of Princess Mikasa's tiaras was her wedding tiara?

1950 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Princess Taka (Mrs. Kazuko Takatsukasa)
1952 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Princess Yori (Mrs. Atsuko Ikeda)
1960 - Received order and prepared wedding goods for Princess Suga’s wedding (Mrs. Takako Shimazu)

I'd love to know what their wedding goods were. Just from looking through some pictures, I wonder if Princess Suga's were these pearl earrings and double strand pearl necklace that she wore as a young woman.
Getty Images - Takako Shimazu on March 10, 1960
Getty Images - Takako Shimazu on June 7, 1961
 
Do you think this means that they only made the second tiara or that this is the second tiara they made for Empress Teimei?
My guess is Mikimoto made the Chrysanthemum tiara. Another blog reports it was created using brooches, seen here on Empress Teimei:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bf/Empress_Sadako.jpg

Is it known which of Princess Mikasa's tiaras was her wedding tiara?
This is Princess Yuriko's wedding tiara/parure

The Daily Diadem: The Mikasa Kokoshnik | The Court Jeweller

According to Princess Akiko, what we call the Mikasa drop tiara (worn by Princess Yuriko, loaned to her daughters Yasuko & Masako, and loaned to Princess Hisako in 2015) is Princess Yuriko's secondary tiara

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D4A50HYUYAAOjmH.png
I'd love to know what their wedding goods were. Just from looking through some pictures, I wonder if Princess Suga's were these pearl earrings and double strand pearl necklace that she wore as a young woman.
Getty Images - Takako Shimazu on March 10, 1960
Getty Images - Takako Shimazu on June 7, 1961
Seems likely :flowers: Classic jewelry for any occasion.
 
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According to Princess Akiko, what we call the Mikasa drop tiara (worn by Princess Yuriko, loaned to her daughters Yasuko & Masako, and loaned to Princess Hisako in 2015) is Princess Yuriko's secondary tiara

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D4A50HYUYAAOjmH.png
I always assumed that this tiara must have been Princess Yuriko's, since it has been worn by both her daughters and one of her daughters-in-law. But it's the first time that I actually see a picture of Princess Yuriko wearing it.

Setsuko, Princess Chichibu, had a quite similar pearl drop tiara, and strangely, Princess Yuriko of Mikasa has also worn this other pearl drop tiara shortly after Princess Chichibu's death. I always wondered why she would do that if she had a similar tiara herself? But I don't know when Princess Hisako started wearing the pearl drop tiara. Is it possible, that Hisako had already been given the Mikasa pearl drop tiara at that time (I think it was in 1997)?


And do you know who the younger lady in that picture is?
 
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