The Imperial Family's Dress

[Mariel]

Yes Ortiz, I've noticed how tastefully and cute Aiko is dressed. Which is a relief after the jeans and sloppy sweat shirts worn by many "tweens" in the USA. That is the way private school and even public school children dressed in America years ago, much of the time.

I surely agree that Masako needs a style overhaul, but please do not have her skirts above her knees like some of the younger European and UK princesses, which would surely be considered undignified in a traditional culture like Japan. But get rid of shoulder pads and bulky jackets. And the pillbox hat Masako wore to the WA wedding was weird, made her look like a soldier at a sentinel box in a group of toy soldiers. Only her beautiful smile saved it. She could look so great with some better designs. I notice some people don't like Letizia's style but I think it would look good on Masako, and some of Mary or Mathilde's outfits would too. but not skirts above the knees.

[Prisma]

Jun Ashida, who designed clothes for Imperial Family, celebrities, dies at 88 - The Mainichi

Jun Ashida, one of Japan's most famous fashion designers known for creating elegant clothes for the Imperial Family, including Empress Michiko, and celebrities, passed away on Oct. 20 due to pneumonia. He was 88.

[...]

The prominent figure tailored a suit for Emperor Akihito when he was a young Crown Prince and for this reason was appointed as an exclusive designer for Empress Michiko for 10 years from 1966. He also designed an evening dress for Crown Princess Masako for her wedding.

[...]

Jun Ashida, former personal designer for Empress Michiko, dies at age 88 | The Japan Times

[Prisma]

Sankei report on Imperial women's clothes.

robe decollete: New Year's reception, Choken-no-Gi (First Audience)

robe montante: General public greetings, New Year's lectures and poetry, greetings for birthdays of Emperor and Empress

jūnihitoe: weddings, enthronement, court rituals

Imperial ladies will wear jūnihitoe at the October 22 enthronement ceremony. Although translated as "12-layer," the actual number of layers in a jūnihitoe varies. Empress Michiko wore 9 robes at the 1990 enthronement.

Empress Masako's outer layer is expected to be white. Kiko's jūnihitoe will be redesigned to reflect her position as crown princess. Other princesses will reuse the purple outer robes of the Heisei era. There will be differences in purple shades depending on age. Also the Nagabakama (formal version of the Hakama trousers) is different for married vs. unmarried women.

Some photos from Emperor Akihito's 1990 enthronement:

Sayako (unmarried princess)
https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...98?s=2048x2048
Notice her Nagabakama is dark purple whereas married women wore red Nagabakama.

Kiko, Hanako and Hisako (married princesses)
https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...20?s=2048x2048
https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...90?s=2048x2048
https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...22?s=2048x2048

Kikuko and Yuriko (older married princesses)
https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...88?s=2048x2048
https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...36?s=2048x2048

[Reinosa]

Originally Posted by Prisma

https://media.gettyimages.com/photos...20?s=2048x2048

OMG Kiko was SO Beautiful.

[Ista]

Thanks for posting that information, Prisma. I am looking forward to seeing the junihitoe of all the imperial ladies, but especially Masako's.

Was there a description of the difference between the robe décolleté and the robe montante?

Edited to add: Especially since I don't really think any of the imperial ladies ever wear something that I would call décolleté in the usual sense of exposed chest--a few collar bones is the most we usually see!

[Prisma]

Yes, these are Japanese interpretations of robe décolleté and robe montante.

robe décolleté: long dress usually with short sleeves, open neckline, and often in white or pale colors. Orders, long gloves, and tiaras for the most formal ceremonies.

Princess Tsuguko and Hisako's necklines are wide or deeper:
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D6_C1mrUIAEuM_2.png

Princess Akiko on the far right:
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D5w7eMZUEAE1cif.jpg

robe montane: long dress with long sleeves, short or high neckline. Hats often accompany "robe montante" for daytime ceremonies.

https://www.sankei.com/images/news/1...5310024-p1.jpg
https://bunshun.jp/mwimgs/3/f/1500wm...1a23140939.jpg
https://bunshun.jp/mwimgs/e/e/1500wm...4368137225.jpg

[Prisma]

Sankei translated their clothing article!

What Japan's Royal Women Wear | JAPAN Forward

[...]

The Grandeur of the Jūnihitoe this October

[...]

The Emperor will be clothed in the kourozennogohou, a robe which is also used for rituals at the Imperial Palace. It is only permitted to be worn by the Emperor.

Crown Prince Fumihito is expected to appear in the ouninohou, which is a robe specifically reserved for imperial princes.

The Empress and princesses will be wrapped in the jūnihitoe or, as it is formally known, the itsutsuginu-karaginu–mo. It is assumed that the base color of the Empress’s karaginu, which is the outermost layer, will be white.

While Crown Princess Kiko’s karaginu will be newly ordered, the other imperial princesses will be wearing purple karaginu that were used during the Heisei era. Different shades of purple will be worn based on the women’s seniority.

The nagabakama is the longer version of hakama, a traditional trousers-like clothing worn with the robes. The type of nagabakama to be worn differs based on the royal member’s marital status.

Unmarried royal women, such as Princess Mako, the eldest daughter of Crown Prince Fumihito and Crown Princess Kiko, will be wearing a dark shade of purple. The wives of other imperial family members, on the other hand, will be wearing a special shade of scarlet.

[Prisma]

Kazu Ito is a designer for the Imperial family. Born 1947, graduated from Sugino Dressmaker Jogakuin in 1970, studied with mother Sumako Ito, and trained in France.
http://kazu-ito.com/pr.html
http://kazu-ito.com/Kprofil.jpg

1990: wedding clothes for Princess Kiko, designed with her mother Sumako Ito
1993: wedding clothes for Crown Princess Masako, designed with her mother Sumako Ito (probably one of the evening dresses as Hanae Mori designed Masako's Western wedding dress and Jun Ashida designed another wedding evening dress)
1994: clothes for Crown Princess Masako's visit to the Middle East
1998: garden party clothes for Crown Princess Masako and Princess Kiko
1998: clothes for Crown Princess Masako at Nagano Olympics
1998: clothes for Princess Kiko's visit to Southeast Asia
1999: clothes for Crown Princess Masako's visit to Belgium
2002: clothes for Crown Princess Masako's visit to Australia and New Zealand
2005: clothes for Crown Princess Masako at World Expo in Aichi Prefecture

Sumako Ito designed the ivory dress Masako often wore to balcony appearances and the 2013 Dutch Inauguration. [bunshun.jp]

[Prisma]

Masako wore Maxim Kobe hats early in her marriage.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4ooXcxg1Pa/

White hat - Ise Jingu in 1993
Green hat - tech session in Mie Prefecture & duck release at Imperial Duck Preserves in 1993
Navy/black hat with white band - Nara in 1994

[Prisma]

Atelier Tsunoda Akemi designed Masako Owada's yellow dress and coat for the engagement announcement/press conference. Les Belles Modes specially made the matching hat. Masako wore Ryusuke Kawamura heels.


The atelier designed for Masako's mother Yumiko and also created clothes for Masako to wear for domestic public duties, foreign visits, and court banquets.

Photos/Sources: mi-mollet, dot.asahi, dot.asahi 2

Les Belles Modes began accepting orders from Empress Kojun in 1934 and has continued to provide hats for the Imperial family, including the weddings of Empress Michiko, Empress Masako, and Crown Princess Kiko.

[Prisma]

Bunshun report about Masako's yellow dress for the engagement press conference.

Two dresses were delivered to the Owada residence in January 1993. Masako (29), her mother Yumiko (54) and younger sister Reiko (26 and recently returned from Hanoi, Vietnam) gathered in the living room with designer Akemi Tsunoda (62) and staff. Both silk dresses were made in a hurry and had the same design but in different colors: pale pink and lemon yellow.

Masako didn't mind either color. She tried on the pink first and everyone approved. After Masako changed into the yellow, Yumiko commented "Yellow is also good. It feels like spring and is the color of hope."

Hisashi Owada (60) returned home and Reiko asked his opinion. He smiled and tried to bypass but Reiko asked again which dress he thought was better. He eventually said "I think the yellow you're wearing now is fine" and Masako said "Let’s make it yellow!" with a bright smile.

There was no deep meaning in the dress selection.

Some were disappointed at Masako's appearance at her official debut to the public. As a Harvard graduate and a talented career woman from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the yellow dress and matching hat felt the "power of the Imperial family" and seemed to block off the individuality of Masako, who walks forward in trench coat and large bag.

However, according to Masako's friend, the nuances are different. "Masako is very good at adapting to circumstances around her. Judging from the interview, Masako decided to abandon her career and work hard in the Imperial family from the beginning."

[victoriaalix]

Originally Posted by Mariel

Yes Ortiz, I've noticed how tastefully and cute Aiko is dressed. Which is a relief after the jeans and sloppy sweat shirts worn by many "tweens" in the USA. That is the way private school and even public school children dressed in America years ago, much of the time.

I surely agree that Masako needs a style overhaul, but please do not have her skirts above her knees like some of the younger European and UK princesses, which would surely be considered undignified in a traditional culture like Japan. But get rid of shoulder pads and bulky jackets. And the pillbox hat Masako wore to the WA wedding was weird, made her look like a soldier at a sentinel box in a group of toy soldiers. Only her beautiful smile saved it. She could look so great with some better designs. I notice some people don't like Letizia's style but I think it would look good on Masako, and some of Mary or Mathilde's outfits would too. but not skirts above the knees.

Aiko's fashion sense seems to be what is usually popular for children of her age in Japan. Note that Japan's fashion sense is generally more conservative than those of the West. Of course, the fashions you see at Akihabara are an exception because those are considered to be fringe fashion within Japan (and even for Western nations).

[Tatiana Maria]

Originally Posted by Prisma

Bunshun report about Masako's yellow dress for the engagement press conference.

[...]

Some were disappointed at Masako's appearance at her official debut to the public. As a Harvard graduate and a talented career woman from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the yellow dress and matching hat felt the "power of the Imperial family" and seemed to block off the individuality of Masako, who walks forward in trench coat and large bag.

It is difficult for me to imagine such comments being aired today, judging members of the imperial family for not displaying enough individuality. On the contrary, it seems that the critics of imperial family members mainly admonish them for breaching guidelines, not being as dutiful or hardworking as they should, etc. However, as I only read what is reported outside of Japan, I may be entirely off the mark.

Originally Posted by Prisma

However, according to Masako's friend, the nuances are different. "Masako is very good at adapting to circumstances around her. Judging from the interview, Masako decided to abandon her career and work hard in the Imperial family from the beginning."

I agree with Masako and her friend; there is nothing wrong with a change of uniform to embody the change of career.

Articles like this about events from decades before are very interesting; thank you for the translation!

[LauraS3514]

Originally Posted by Tatiana Maria

It is difficult for me to imagine such comments being aired today, judging members of the imperial family for not displaying enough individuality. On the contrary, it seems that the critics of imperial family members mainly admonish them for breaching guidelines, not being as dutiful or hardworking as they should, etc. However, as I only read what is reported outside of Japan, I may be entirely off the mark.

I agree with Masako and her friend; there is nothing wrong with a change of uniform to embody the change of career.

Articles like this about events from decades before are very interesting; thank you for the translation!

One thing I remember from that time is that Masako was criticized for two things about the engagement interview: for speaking more words than her fiance (it was something like nine words or thereabouts), and for being taller than Naruhito. I kid you not!

[Prisma]

Various articles about the restoration of one of Empress Shoken's Western style court dresses

- This court dress is one of 3 formal court dresses and restoration began in 2018.
- The dress was originally thought to be made in Germany as there is record of a long court dress order to Berlin, Germany in 1886. However, it could be made in Japan.
- When the lining of the dress train was removed for restoration, the team found Japanese paper written with Chinese characters was used as reinforcement material.
- The floral embroidery was also done in Japan.
- The dress fabric is a mystery. Since Empress Shoken encouraged domestic silk, it was believed to be Japanese. However, experts suggest the complex fabric used a jacquard loom which was difficult to weave in Japan at the time.
- Monica Bethe is director of the restoration project and Empress Emerita Michiko is interested as well. Bethe reported the technique of using Japanese paper as reinforcing material is an embroidery method that has been used since the 16th century in Japan. Different from European methods of reinforcement.
- Empress Shoken donated the dress to Daisho-ji temple in Kyoto in 1911.
- The partially restored train will be exhibited at Meiji Jingu Museum in Shibuya, Tokyo from October 17. Full restoration is scheduled to be completed in 2022.
- Empress Shoken wore a long, formal court dress for the first time during New Year's celebration in 1887.

Photos: Asahi, tokyo-np.co.jp, tokyo-np.co.jp2

[Prisma]

Asahi translated their article. Yay!

Secrets unravel during repairs to Meiji Era gown worn by empress: The Asahi Shimbun

A formal court gown with a long trail thought to have been tailored overseas for Empress Shoken (1850-1914) is unraveling all sorts of secrets as it undergoes repairs.

[...]

The flowing dress was preserved at Daishoji, an imperial convent in Kyoto, where female members of the imperial clan, court nobility and others lived as Buddhist nuns after they retired.

A note in Indian ink found on the lining of the dress says the garment was donated by Empress Shoken to the nunnery in 1911.

Ryobun Inui, a nun at Daishoji, said its abbess at the time had interactions with Empress Shoken.

[...]

Monica Bethe, head of the executive committee of the scientific repair and restoration project, said the style of the sleeves and other features indicate the garment was tailored around 1888-1890.

While records suggest the gown was tailored in Germany, Bethe said it was found during repairs that embroidery was made in Japan.

When the lining of the dress was removed, a piece of traditional Japanese “washi” paper, with kanji written on it, emerged on the other side of embroidery on the dress’s train that served as a stiffener.

“Repairs of the dress help us understand the historical background of the time the dress was being made,” said Bethe, director of the Kyoto-based Medieval Japanese Studies Institute. “The work involves unraveling one mystery after another.”

She referred to a “mystery” surrounding the fabric of the dress.

The fabric was assumed to be a product of Japan, partly because Empress Shoken was a keen promoter of the nation’s silk industry.

Given its complexity, the dress’s fabric was likely woven using a Jacquard machine. However, experts concluded that it would have been difficult to weave it with the less sophisticated Jacquard machines then in use in Japan.

[...]

The bodice and partially restored train on display at Meiji Jingu Museum

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQXN98N8F08

[Prisma]

FNN interviewed hat designer Ohko Hirata about Princess Aiko’s hat worn for greeting her grandparents on New Year 2022. Hirata suggested adding Aiko’s personal emblem Goyo azalea as decoration. She also designed the yellow hat Empress Masako wore at the general public greetings for Emperor Naruhito’s accession May 4, 2019.

Although Hirata did not design the hat Empress Masako wore on November 13 (Sea enrichment festival), she said her company has made many changes to it, such as reworking and replacing the hat band with the blue, curvy ribbon to mimic Masako's suit edges. Asked about Masako's tendency to wear hats low over her eyes, Hirata says "[it's] a very mature way of wearing it" with the hat shape clearly visible whereas "wearing a hat shallow (higher) gives a younger impression."

Photos: FNN

Ohko Hirata is the daughter of late hat designer Akio Hirata, who created many hats for Empress Emerita Michiko.